Toronto is undergoing somewhat of a French culinary renaissance, but for Rumen Dimitroff, the real cachet, is, and always has been, in Russia. The man behind Rasputin and the original incarnation of Pravda Vodka Bar, Rumen has found infinite inspiration from his home country, and has been slowly filling the East End with chic Russian-inspired lounges. Since his escape from the communist regime, the world-worn restaurateur has always found ways to inject spaces with old-world charm, but for his latest spot, Samovar, he had a head start. Located in the beautifully restored art deco space of the now-defunct Laurentian Room on Winchester Street,
Samovar feels like it's been around decades. And in a way, it kind of has.
Walking into the dimly-lit lounge, one of the first thing you'll notice is the long mahogany bar, a feature of the original 1935 building, and a favourite hangout of Al Capone. The rich wooden floors, maroon banquettes, and signature lighting scheme give the room a dark sexy vibe, while specially commissioned paintings of samovars and, well, actual samovars fill it with Russian accents. There's a bit of a mystical feel to the space, and that's something that Rumen has chosen to play off of.
There's still a number of fine vodkas, in particular Stolichnaya and Wyborowa Exquisite, but this time around, the proprietor has decided to focus on fine champagnes (including Perrier Jouet, Mumm, and Hungaria Grande Cuvee), and, more importantly, that oft-mythologized, recently legalized boho nectar: absinthe. Due to its formerly shady status, many absinthe brands are still somewhat rare, which makes Samovar's collection, including Pernod, Taboo (a B.C. brand), and many more to come, an attraction in and of itself.
Absinthe has been known to mess with some serious drinkers like Ernest Hemingway and Vincent Van Gogh, and it has developed a reputation as an aphrodisiac, hallucinogen, and everything else under the sun. In reality, you'll probably be affected much more by the 74% alcohol content, but there's no denying that absinthe is a mystical spirit. It's also a very social and ceremonial spirit, which is something else that Samovar capitalizes on. Guests are encouraged to partake in the absinthe ritual, dripping water over a sugar cube before the absinthe is poured in. The result is a flavourful combination, and one that is more conducive to sipping rather than shooting (believe me, you don't want to be taking shots of absinthe). Rather than fountains, however, the water is dripped straight out of old-school Russian metal samovars (kind of like a teapot, but much more Russian).
Whether you're sipping a vodka cocktail or chasing the green fairy, you'll want to sit back and enjoy yourself. "I want to take this back to my father's tradition in Russia and Bulgaria," says Rumen in his gruff accent. "It's not 'let's have a shot and get out of here,' but 'let's have a drink and enjoy ourselves'." In accordance with this philosophy, Samovar has a full card of menu items that are conducive to alcohol induced snacking. Charcuterie is both smoked in house and imported from a multi-generational salami and prosciutto making family, while classics like Steak Tartare and Shrimp Stroganoff are prepared in house. There's also a good selection of fine caviars. For the really adventurous, the walk-in freezer is known to host food and vodka tastings, complete with fur coats and fur hats for guests.
Despite its ominous vibe, Samovar is ultimately a welcoming place. There is a strong focus on hospitality and service, as if it were your own basement (if you lived in a 1935 heritage building with Russian accents). But if you do feel like getting a little crazy, there are often DJs, and the wide wooden floor lends itself easily to dancing. On other nights, the space hosts burlesque shows, entertainment, and even trapeze performance. After a few sips of absinthe, you might be down for more than you think.
by Richard Trapunski
September 03,2009
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